There's a tendency to heaviness in some sauces - mali bagun aubergines in saffron

There's a tendency to heaviness in some sauces - mali bagun (aubergines in saffron, cream and onions, pounds 5.75) suffered from it. But deft spicing in the shorisha maach (chunks of fish with ground mustard seeds, pounds 7.90) and uuri niramish (broad beans, pounds 3.25) sweep away misgivings. Bangladesh is also famed for its sweets, and Khazana has several, including morobba (pumpkin in spicy syrup, pounds 3.25). A clientele of north Oxford worthies and well-dressed younger couples are waited on by the smart staff (women in saris). The wicker and cane colonial look holds sway in both the ground-floor dining room and upstairs bar.PHIL HARRISS7 South Parade, Summertown, Oxford (01865 59653) Lunch 12noon-2.30pm, dinner 6-11pm, Mon-Sat.

Set lunch pounds 8.50 (four courses), set meal pounds 2O (five courses)MandalayMandalay doesn't look like much - it's a small shop unit on an ugly stretch of the Edgware Road - but step inside and be charmed by the Ally family's remarkable Burmese cooking. Burmese cuisine has much in common with that of its neighbours India and Bangladesh, but it doesn't use the key spices such as cloves, cinnamon or cardamom. Instead there are south-east Asian flavours such as lemongrass, fresh coriander and galangal (Siamese ginger). Mok hin gar (pounds 5), the Burmese national dish, is a huge bowl of rice vermicelli topped with a thick sauce made from giant catfish that has been cooked to a pulp. There's also a score of interesting dishes for vegetarians too. Main course dishes cost from pounds 3 to pounds 5.90, and the set lunches are a steal.GUY DIMONDMandalay, 444 Edgware Rd, London W2 (0171-258 3696) Lunch 12noon-3pm, dinner 6-1lpm, Mon-Sat Closed Sunday.

Set lunches pounds 2.90 (one course), pounds 4.90 (three courses)Melbourne'sSet in a distinguished-looking building just up the hill from Broad Quay, this bustling bistro allows you to bring in your own wine at no extra cost, despite having its own perfectly adequate list. The interior is simply decorated, highlighting the raison d'eat: the food. The cooking has a few Oriental and Mediterranean flourishes, but mostly it's dependable Anglo-French fare. There are several starters, around a dozen main courses and up to 10 puddings on the set menus Daily specials are on a blackboard. Starters include a brochette of duck with a spicy peanut sauce, fillet of trout with horseradish mousse, or two types of marinated mushroom. Main courses are the usual roll-call of sirloin steak and roast lamb, plus a few non-meat dishes such as pancake-filled ratatouille, all accompanied by perfectly al dente vegetables.