They have successfully sued several British publications for libel over inaccurate stories including the Independent on Sunday and The Observer An editor

They have successfully sued several British publications for libel over inaccurate stories, including the Independent on Sunday and The Observer An editor said: "They've got the fiercest lawyers in town. Everyone in Fleet Street is terrified of writing anything about them in case they get it wrong."The latest to feel the firm's displeasure is British writer Christopher Mason. The book, titled Undressed: the life and times of Gianni Versace, was to be published by Little, Brown in July this year. Mason's book touched on Gianni's childhood, his relationships, and his brilliant manipulation of the media.Last week, lawyers for the Versaces threatened legal action if Little, Brown went ahead with publication of the book, on the grounds that it was full of inaccuracies and misrepresentations.A spokeswoman for Little, Brown said in a statement: "In mid-March, we received letters threatening legal action. We agreed with Christopher Mason that it could not be published in its present form, and he withdrew it."Versace have explained that their concerns are solely about inaccuracy. Emanuela Schmeidler, Versace's Milan spokeswoman, told The New York Times: "It's not about a good biography or a bad biography. It's about a serious biography." Versace's New York spokesman said: "We did what anyone else would do under the circumstances, which is to defend ourselves and our name." The author has admitted that he struggled to find sources who would talk on the record about Gianni's private life.And he is unlikely ever to find any.

Generally, the fashion industry works in a symbiotic relationship with writers who are given extravagant gifts and invited to lavish parties, particularly during the couture shows, where guests include rock stars and film divas. In the weeks before the shows, fashion writers are more than usually eager not to displease the couture houses, lest they lose their coveted seat in front of the catwalk (the designers have the power in this scenario: how is a writer to review the show if she hasn't seen it?).Magazines rely heavily on advertising by fashion houses, most of whom have branched out into luxury items such as handbags and perfumes, even hotels; publishers' commercial departments are understandably unwilling to jeopardise lucrative advertising deals with careless or negative editorial.One source, who, in common with almost all fashion writers and publishers contacted in the course of researching this article would not be identified, said: "A major designer wields a great deal of power in fashion circles. Occasionally, big designers will block big-name editors from their shows, but a lot of the time it's a publicity stunt But it's always newspaper editors, never magazine editors. Designers need the magazines as much as the magazine needs the designers."Typically, Versace has always given bigger, better parties than anyone else The Versace hospitality knows no bounds.

"All Italian designers give gifts," says one fashion insider "It's in the nature of their hospitality The Versaces are gift-giving types. They have huge dinners - and it makes doing business a lot nicer."Gianni's sister Donatella has always run a very slick PR operation. While he focused on design, she worked on building good relations with supermodels and film stars. She was the first designer to forge links with celebrities, lending them outfits for high-profile occasions such as film premieres The tactic worked brilliantly. The name of Versace, quite apart from the flashy, show-stopping style of the clothes, became synonymous with showbusiness.

When Liz Hurley appeared at Hugh Grant's side at the premier of Four Weddings and a Funeral, she wore a pink Versace dress barely held together with gold safety pins. That Dress, as it quickly became known, made That Girlfriend a star overnight.While Donatella was always Gianni's sidekick - the cool kid sister, with a gift for spotting what was hip - she was also Gianni's muse. Her influence as a trendsetter in her own right should not be underestimated. She inspired the trashy form of glamour for which the label became renowned. She became friendly with royalty and rock stars, who later became an essential part of the Versace image. The clothes were a rebellion against conventional good taste and minimalism, and celebrities loved them.